Yet it's one of two or three main concert halls in Paris (plus the two opera houses) and the place, in 1913, where Stravinsky's "Rite of Spring" was first performed, causing a riot which forced Igor to flee out a backstage window. Click here.
We knew when we bought tickets in November that only the worst seats were still available, and so they were .. at one end of the top ring, right above the stage, partial view. But we could hear well, of course, and see a lot, so we're glad we went. Interesting concept, costumed as if it were about 1890 in Vienna but using stunning hi-tech projections as scenery and background. All black and white, moving and still, abstractions, geometry figures, realistic images, everything. The stage had two low full-width steps, both slightly inclined and each with a people-mover belt like in an airport concourse. Oddly, they used a Mozart-era orchestra--old wooden clarinets, oboes and flutes, natural valveless horns, mini-bassoons, small-bore brass, and strings with no vibrato whatsoever. The result--a very edgy, incisive orchestral sound--was nonetheless less powerful than modern instruments so it didn't cover the singers .. all of whom were excellent, even the trio of young boys who repeatedly stole the show.
"Magic Flute" was written in German, of course, and sung here in German. But .. good news: there were supertitles. Bad news: they were of course in French. Cleverly, and probably just for today's performance, at the point where a flute player (in the orchestra) and Papageno (on stage with his little pan flute) toss musical phrases back and forth, suddenly we hear the beginning of "Jingle Bells" in the pit, finished by Papageno on stage! At the end, after 3½ hours, the audience clapped so long (still nobody leaving) that the orchestra finally had to play several unrehearsed Christmas carols (badly) and everyone sang along: "O Tannenbaum" ("Mon beau sapin, roi des forêts" but isn't it a German carol?), then "Jingle Bells" again. And then again. Very festive indeed.
Despite our fears, busses were running well today after all. And it was so mild that people were drinking and dining (and smoking) outside without heaters.
So we caught a bus to a good little restaurant we knew would be open (they told us so a couple weeks ago) and again enjoyed their simple regional fare .. a white pudding with truffle stuffing, farmer sausage with sautéed apple slices, wine, coke, and a piece of traditional "Buche Noël" ("Christmas log") for dessert (which can be elaborately decorated and cost up to 100 Euros .. click for photos). Caught two busses home almost without waiting. Today it was hard not to spend $200.
Still, we have three more big days to go. And then a return to Paris ASAP. Very nice Christmas.
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